From Kamouraska to
Riviere-du-Loup

So there we leave Kamouraska and drive towards Riviere-du-Loup in bright sunshine (hard to think of in snow-and ice-Toronto). We visit an enormous IGA super market and discover delectable local stuff.

The Bas-Saint-Laurent tourist region extends along the St. Lawrence River, from La Pocatiere to Sainte-Luce. It is linked to the north shore by three ferries and is bordered on the south by New Brunswick and Maine. Several islands dot the St. Lawrence River, one of which is inhabited year round.

Some Quebec people call the St. Lawrence a river, others call it a sea. Actually the St. Lawrence is a river, an estuary and a gulf, meaning that it’s an intercontinental sea. The St, Lawrence takes it source from the five Great Lakes, Lake Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario. Together, they represent one of the largest fresh water reserves on earth.

The Lower St. Lawrence area is said to boast one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.

From route 132 we take exit 507 of highway 20 and turn into the St. Lawrence River Exploration Station. We are greeted by Sonia Giroux, an enthusiastic young marine mammal scientist. Over the entrance hangs the jawbone of a fin whale. This marine mammal observation network features a world of biodiversity, its coastline and its fauna, seabirds, whales and seals.

The St. Lawrence River is one of the richest and most diversified ecosystems in North America. Costal habitats and sea beds in the estuary sustain a fauna of over 880 species of benthic invertebrates, 80 species of fish, and 14 different species of marine mammals. Seven different sharks come to the river for feeding. Enormous concentration of krill and copepods accumulate in the river.

Whales also benefit from the abundance of food in the area. Nineteen different species of marine birds use the river as a pantry and for reproduction, and 150 species of birds use it for spring and fall migration.

The first floor exhibit features three taxidermy specimen – a Minke Whale (Baleen Whale), a White Beluga Whale (Toothed Whale) and a Grey Seal. Whales can stay under water for a long time, the Bottlenose Whale and the male Sperm Whale can dive for over two hours. Whales don’t spit water through their blowholes. Their breath is a mix of humid and hot air, actually condensed steam.

Whales, dolphins and porpoises are grouped under the same class of Cetaceans. The word comes from Greek, meaning sea monster. Cetaceans are also divided into two large groups: Baleen Whales and Toothed Whales. Baleens are a horny substance growing in the mouth of many whales. They act as a screen or sieve to catch the food of whales. The size of baleens varies from one species to the next. The baleen of the Blue Whale can measure 3.28 feet at the most. In the Fin Whale it can reach a maximum of 36 inches but only 12 inches for the Minke Whale. The Greenland Right Whale baleens can measure up to 14 ft. The Blue Whale can weigh over 100 tons and eat up to three tons of krill a day.

Whales can emit a wide variety of sounds, some inaudible to the human ear. Scientists believe some can communicate with each other over a distance of over 600 miles in the acoustic channels of the ocean.

The Exploration Centre also devotes a section to Seals, which form a large part of aquatic life. Harbour Seals live year round in the St. Lawrence and the Lower St. Lawrence Islands have a seal colony. Harbour Seals are susceptible to pollution and, of course, the Seal Hunt. In French they’re called phoques, which Sonia assures us, always produces a quaint and puzzled response.

Bic National Park

We’re late as we drive along highway 132 and admire the landscape. Susie Loiselle, Quebec maritime representative, has been waiting for us. It’s hot but she doesn’t mind that we’re a little late and drives us around on a tour of Bic.

Bic National Park offers 25 km (16 miles) of hiking trails, 15 kms (9 miles) of bike trails and numerous lookouts showcasing its capes, bays, coves, islands and mountains on the edge of the St. Lawrence. For decades now the beautiful park has been the playground for outdoor enthusiasts, ornithologists and bird watchers, botanists, geologists, boaters, artists and photographers and families who camp and picnic. Much of its 33 km is water and it has several islands.

Le Pic Champlain takes its name from Samuel de Champlain who drew the Pic as a landmark against a navigation chart and described the high mountain in detail during his first trip in 1603.

L’ile aux Amours, supposed to have harboured idyllic love: Young couples would come at low tide and follow the sandbar and manage to become "prisoners of love" while the tide was rising.

Seals love to come here. The common, small seals and the grey seals come during the summer. Some of the approximately 150 common seals and 50 grey seals enjoy resting on the rocks at high tide. The water level needs to be high enough for them to access the rocks, bask in the sun and do some shedding.

If one wants to stay overnight yurts beckon for $100 a night. These traditional dwelling places of nomads living on the steppes of Central Asia hold four people, have beds, propane fridge, stove, table, chairs, outdoor fireplace and picnic table.

We’re starting our own picnic but are eaten by "mouches" and take refuge in the observation centre and museum. After we finish our lunch we’re onward toward Rimouski, Bob photographs a perfect sunset and we’re looking forward to a night’s rest.

For further information: www.bonjourquebec.com